PLANING & TRAINING
Last June when close friend and climbing partner Cory Hall passed away climbing in Peru, James Monypenny (British ((and another of Cory’s climbing partners)) and I talked about putting a trip together in his honor. After some, much needed, lengthy skype conversations with James we came up with an interesting and inspiring adventure to Pakistan’s little explored Khane Valley. A training trip seemed like a good idea since James and I hadn’t climbed together since our trip to Patagonia in 2012/13. We talked about the Canadian Rockies, Alaska and Chamonix.
James had recently purchased a Minibus so Chamonix made the most sense, as I had a place to stay for free! Needless to say that was a huge selling point. Due to the free accommodation budgeting became easy lift tickets and food!
Since my arrival on March 31st we’ve taken advantage of 4 periods of good weather climbing Madness Tres Mince AI5 500m on Pointes superieures de Pre de Bar, La Ginat AI5 1000m on Les Droites, attempted the Dru North Couloir Direct M7 WI6 and an awesome 10 pitch 5.10+ rock route on Pointe Lachenal.
For the next few days we’ll be doing research on numerous travel, visa and climbing logistics for Pakistan as well as coming up with our next objective in Chamonix. Whether it’s another go at the Dru’s north couloir direct or the Grand Jorasses we won’t know until that window opens.
