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EXPEDITION

In Mid-August until late September of 2015 James Monypenny (UK) and Max fisher (Canada) will conduct an exploratory expedition to attempt the Tangra Tower (5620m) in lightweight alpine style.

The Beautiful granite spire of Tangra Tower 5620m, lies on the northern edge of the Khane Valley, in the Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan. Very few expeditions have ventured into the Khane valley, most favoring Charakusa and Nangmah valley. Only three, out of 66 peaks that surround the khane valley have been successfully climbed. (Pk 25, Levski Peak (5733m) and Grey Tower (5435m). There is a huge potential for new routes both Alpine and big wall in nature up many of the unclimbed summits. The beautiful and technically challenging peak of Tangra tower 5620m has never been attempted. Only four expeditions have ever entered the Khane valley, and none have ever entered the glacial cirque surrounding tangra tower, let alone attempt the mountain. Most of the inhabitants of the Khane village have never had interactions with westerners. Max and James will travel to the Khane valley in September and October 2015 to make the first accent of Tangra tower in alpine style.

Tangra Tower. Photo by ...

HOW WE CLIMB

We are taking equipment to climb in Alpine style. This essentially means that during a climb we will bring the minimal amount of equipment to complete the climb, and therefore move in a fast and light way. Style is important to us. Both I and max have a good amount of experience making fast accents of alpine objectives, and we have been climbing very fast together. We always endeavor to free climb were possible, and stick religiously to traditional protection tactics. Expedition Siege tactics do not interest us, and all attempts will be made in a single push. We will not be taking bolts and or bolting equipment. Any retreat or decent will be made leaving absolute minimal gear behind. We will not be using fixed ropes. We may employ one porter or mule to help with carrying equipment to base camp, otherwise we will operate completely independently of other people and organizations. We prefer to organize our own transport and accommodation and cater for ourselves whilst in base camp. Max and myself are good friends, and we know each others climbing strengths and weaknesses. We have climbed together on some serious objectives and work well as a team. We will be training together during April by climbing for one month together in the Alps. 

 

We aim to establish base camp at the Korean BC, and set-up an Advanced Base camp on the 2nd Khane Cwm, and explore route options from the Southern and Western aspects of Tangra Tower. We will go in for approximately one month and therefore have time for several attempts and quite probably other routes and summits. 

FIRSTS

A first ascent of Tangra Tower will be one of many 'firsts' during this expedition. It will offer a truly adventurous challenge to both members of the team. This trip will be the first time either member has been to Pakistan and Max's first expedition in Asia. It will be the first time an expedition has set out to climb Tangra tower. The Khane Valley also offers a vast array of unclimbed peaks that we hope to explore and possibly establish more first ascents in the range.

We believe our expedition shows a true spirit of adventure in a remote region and will help raise the profile of British & Canadian mountaineering. Through promotion of our expedition we also hope to increase awareness of a seldom visited climbing area, and thus promote further expeditions and tourism to an underdeveloped area of Pakistan. 

WHY WE DO IT

The challenges of a self sufficient exploratory mountaineering expedition in Pakistan are many. Working as a team to tackle each of these challenges, accepting our failures and celebrating together in our successes, experiencing true unspoilt natural beauty, suffering together in physical and mental hardship, sharing humor in the face of adversity......these are all reasons I love expedition life and why it helps to shape my character. 

SHARING THE ADVENTURE

Both myself and max believe in inspiring others through sharing our adventures on social media. We will have an expedition Blog, facebook and twitter account, so that people can follow our progress and enjoy photos, videos and stories of our expedition. Should you choose to support the team your organization can benefit from the following promotion methods: promotion pictures and links through the expedition blog and web site, Accreditation on any magazine, newspaper, Journal articles, and web reports, Special mention on the Trip film (will be produced in HD), Branding on clothing and equipment, specialist publications, Motivational speeches, presentations, and company PR, High resolution photographs.

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